All About Suits Part III

In working in the men’s clothing industry and as a keen observer I’ve noticed that some men’s suits don’t fit them properly.  You’ve got the “Big Barney” look, that is, a big man wearing a purple suit that is so loud that one can’t help but compare him to the character that kids love.  Then you have the brother that’s vertically challenged like Spike Lee wearing an 8-button double breasted suit that looks like it’s his little brother’s overcoat.  Then there’s the short, portly brother that looks like the “grape man” character in the “Fruit of the Loom” commercial with lumps everywhere due to the tightness of the suit.

In consideration of the fit of the suit, the ideal build is for one to be tall, with broad shoulders and a slim waist.  Now we know that’s not reality for most men but that’s the working model for the discussion for looking your best.  Therefore, whether you’re tall like Magic Johnson, short like Prince or portly like Cedric the Entertainer, there are some guidelines to be followed that will enable you to look your best.  By the way, I highly recommend that if you don’t have a personal tailor you consider getting one.  My tailor is a Man of Color, Robby Brookins.  He is the best in the business with many years of experience.  The name of the shop is Robby’s Quality Alterations and it’s in Wyoming, Ohio, a suburb of Cincinnati.  He may be reached at 513-948-1277.

Please consider the general guidelines that follow.

 

Tall and thin:

Do:

·        Wear 3-button single breasted suits; three-piece suits to add bulk                    

·        Consider suits with shoulder pads to bulk up your shoulders

Do not:

·        Wear tight suits that accentuate your thin limbs

Big and tall:

Do:

·        Wear suit pants with cuffs

·        Wear  navy and dark suits          

Do not:

·        Wear suits with large patterns or loud colors like purple  (kids may confuse you for Big Barney)

·        Wear suits with shoulder pads that would make you look like Herman the Muster!!!

                                                                                   

Short and slim:

Do:

·        Wear single breasted 3- button and double breasted suits

·        Wear suits with flap or patch pockets

·        Wear suits with pin stripes or window pane patterns

·        Dress large

Do not:

·        Avoid contrast between top and bottom like sport coats or blazers with pants (it breaks up the vertical line)

By the way, I don't believe in the rule regarding wearing sports coats or blazers with slacks. If it looks good observers will be captured by the look rather than the appearance of not looking as tall!

Short and heavy:

Do:

·        Dress “large”

·        Wear single breasted 2 –button suits  

·        Wear suits with peaked lapels, besom pockets

·        Wear suits with solids and vertical patterns, medium or dark colors (dark colors make you look smaller)                                                                       

Do not:

·        Wear tight fitting clothes

·        Avoid suits with short rolled lapels, flaps pockets or patch pockets

·        Wear light colors

·        Avoid improper fitting vest on three-piece suits

*Athletic build:

Do:

·        Wear slightly longer suit coat

·        Wear single breasted 2-button suits

·        Wear suits with larger arm holes and wider sleeves           

Do not:

·        Wear tight a suit coat such that the biceps are visible

·        Pants shouldn’t be too tight!

“Brothers with back”:

Do:

·        Wear suits with vent less or single vents                    

Do not:

·        Wear suits with double vents that make you look like you have a book shelf!

*Suits have a difference five or six inches between suit coat and slacks. The athletic build has a difference of 8 inches.

Let’s take a closer look at the proper fit of the different parts of the suit.

[1]The Jacket Shoulder

I wouldn’t necessarily be this detailed but for those that are it’s a nice guideline to follow. 

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[1] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 37. 

[2]Jacket Length Relative to Jacket Bottom

Since the arm’s length may be somewhat not proportional to the jacket bottom one must always consider that the jacket should cover the buttocks.

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[2] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 41. 

[3]For the Stout Man

This will work for all sizes when the suit is fitted properly.

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[3] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 50. 

 

[4]The Double Breasted Suit Coat

The double breasted suit is for the man that wants to be impeccably dressed!

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[4] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 51. 

[5]Suit Jacket Collar

                                                                                                                           

Between the two misfits the “standing away” is more common and can sometimes be subtle.  The “bunching in the back” is more obvious. 

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[5] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 57. 

[6]Proper Fit

When the jacket fits properly its very smooth, natural and flawless! 

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[6] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 58. 

[7]Suit Jacket Collar vs the Shirt

This is one of the most overlooked areas in consideration of the fit of the suit. 

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[7] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 58. 

[8]Suit Jacket Closure

I’ve witnessed some suit jackets on some Men of Color that looked like they could pop off at any moment.  Not a good thing! 

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[8] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 59. 

[9]Shirt Cuff

This really is a matter of personal preference.  However, it does look more formal to show your shirt cuff.  Especially with French cuff shirts which require cuff links.  Regarding the preceding it would defeat the purpose of the shirt if the cuffs were not visible.  Also, I’ve witnessed some Men of Color wear French Cuff shirts sans cuff links but personally I would never wear them without cuff links.  They are made together like “hand-in-glove”!!!

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[9] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 59. 

[10]The Vest

By the way, in my opinion it is very unattractive for the overweight mans’ bulge to be visible beneath the vest.  More to the point, the visibly overweight man would be better off not wearing a vest.  Also, thin men should consider the three-piece suit to add some bulk. 

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[10] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 60. 

[11]The Trouser

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[11] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 61. 

[12]Bottom of Trousers

I highly recommend cuffs on dress slacks.  They anchor the pants by adding weight which promotes linearity which in turn enhances the crease of the pants plus they’re classic! 

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[12] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 61. 

In summary, hopefully I’ve provided you with some information you can use in purchasing a suit.  You owe it to yourself too look good in your personal investment by wearing the suit that really represents YOU!!!!